Thursday 7 March 2013

Salt flats, volcanoes and flamingos

Taking a slight detour from our original plan we decided to head south to Uyuni to experience one of the seven natural wonders of the world Salar de Uyuni (Slat flats of Uyuni). After a very uncomfortable 11hr bus ride we arrived in Uyuni and were quickly joined by our 4 other tour companions and Tunupa Tour driver Waldo. It wasn't long before the car was packed and we were on our way for our 3 day tour.
It really doesn't matter how many times you see photos of the Salt Flats, nothing can brace you for the shear magnitude and beauty of this 10,500 square kilometers of pure salt plain. Upon entering the flats we gazed out of the tinted windows and we were all in awe at the white horizon that extended out in all directions around us. But it wasn't until we first to a step onto the salt that you realize it's full magnitude. With its slight layer of crystal clear salty brine it was as if you were walking on top of a parallel universe.
It wasn't long after the initial awe moment subsided that we all decided to take part, in the almost as famous, funny salt flat perspective photos. Since the entire area is one big white canvas you can really get some amazing, logic defying photos. However for some (two Japanese guys on our tour) a more interesting photo is to get completely nude, except for your backpack, a give a slightly shocked model look. Unfortunately I don't have a copy of these photos due to legal reasons however here are some of ours.
After the salt flats we all piled back into the Lexus 4x4 and headed for our first nights rest point, Villa Alota. The accommodation was only basic, small mud brick house with dorms and twin rooms, showers with hot water were an optional extra, but at 10 Bolivanions each and our current salty state we couldnt pass it up. The next morning was a reasonable 8am start where we continued our journey south to visit 5 small lagoons all inhabited by flamingos, the Siloli Desert, Stone Tree and finally Luguna Colorada, our second rest stop. The scenery along the drive was amazing and forever changing, with crops of quinoa blowing in the breeze, herds of llama wandering aimlessly and snow capped mountains covering the horizon. Each lagoon had a different quality and with it a difference species of flamingo. The arid desert was a plesant change in scenery, from the high altitude forests in the north, and the random scatter of volcanic rocks made it great for photos.
During the first stop where there was flamingo's we were concerned because we didn't get to see them up close, as they were very timid. Well we really shouldn't have worried ourselves as almost every lake we stopped at was full of them. At the final lake, Luguna Colorada, Ryan thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to photography them by stethly sneaking up to the bank, much to the amusement of the others on our tour group. However, it was completely worth it, as he got some amazing photos!
After a few drinks on the final night with our new friends from the tour, the third day started very early - a 4am wake up. This was to get to see some gueysers and get to the hot springs at sunrise. It was bitterly cold when we woke up and everyone was moving slowly but it was all made worthwhile when we were slipping into the smoking waters and sitting back to watch the sun rise. After a half hour soak and with the sun in the sky the quick dash to get dressed was a lot warmer then we anticipated. We then drove onto the green lake (which wasn't green due to wet season) and then dropped half the tour group off for their bus into Chile. Ryan and I made the most of the quick stop by jumping the trench illegally into Chile and then back again - our quickest international trip yet! With considerably more room in the car we started the drive back to Uyuni past Licancabur Volcano and many more that our driver listed as we drove past. We then stopped at Rocks Valley which was all formed from surrounding volcano's creating beautiful red rocks.
We have heard picking a tour company for the salt flats can be a bit of a nightmare, so we were admittedly concerned when we booked from La Paz (we wanted to make sure we could go on a specific day). We booked with Tunupa Tours, on their budget tour - $110 aud for 3 days / 2 nights. To anyone else looking for a tour we highly recommend them, and our driver Waldo. The accomodation was extremely basic, but comfortable nevertheless, the vehicle was in great condition and the food was great. We certianly weren't expecting chicken schnitzel with pasta and veggies in the middle of an isolated desert or llama steaks with quinola, roasted potatoes and bananas in a brick oven. They even gave us a bottle of wine to share on the final night!
After a long drive we arrived back in Uyuni to make our overnight bus back to La Paz.
- Ryan & Louise -

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