The Hairy Andean Mountain Worm

Situated high in the Andean mountain ranges of Peru is the Hairy Andean Mountain Worm or as its know by its Latin name Chewpaca. Little is known about this majestic above ground land worm due to their near extinction by the Inca's, for their sweet meat, fur and medicinal purposes, and also their very timid nature in the wild. From the little study completed on these creatures researchers have been able to deduce the following:

• They live in the Andean mountains, Peru, typically above 4300m
• Life span of 80 years
• Average length of 4m, but have been know to grow as long as 6m
• Whilst they are a land crawler, their fur is some of the softest on the planet. For this reason the Inca's use to hunt them and use their skin/fur for sleeping bags
• Estimated only 56 are left in the wild
• Diet consists of mostly of snails and moss. But they are particularly fond of spiderwebs although not spiders
• They frighten very easily and when spooked can reach speeds of up to 17km/h
• Their mating habits are quite strange, which is also believed to be a reason for the small numbers, as they live solitary lives only to come together every 7 years to mate. After mating season it's not quite sure how they reproduce as this has never been observed
• Inca's were also know to hunt them for medicinal purposes, as their skin secretes an oil which was used to cure baldness

Fortunately for us we were able to snap the pictures below as one of them was crawling through a town in search of snails.

- Ryan -

Choco Museo

As soon as I heard that there was a chocolate museum in Cusco I though we better go see what they had on offer. As soon as we were in the door (we had to wait at the front for them to open) I immediately signed us up to the chocolate making class - bean to bar. The class started with us moving up to the museum area and our instructor explaining how the Cocoa is grown and harvested, and how the fermentation process must be completed within 5 hrs of picking the beans. We then moved back to the kitchen and started to roast the beans in the traditional clay pot. After roasting the beans we set to peeling them before placing them in a mortar and pestle to grind the beans into a paste. Gladys our instructor made this a competition (there was two other Dutch girls in our workshop) which Ryan, with his manly strength won and was rewarded with chocolate tea, husks from the cocoa beans to be boiled with water really yummy.

Next Gladys made us a traditional Mayan drink using the cocoa bean paste and chilli which was quite tasty. She then made a traditional Peruvian hot chocolate with milk, spices and honey - also really yummy. Next up Gladys showed us the mixing stage which went for 24 hrs and then demonstrated the tempering phase which is to ensure the chocolate looks glossy and of high quality. Finally, we started on the best part - the making of the bars!! We were all given our molds for the chocolate and Gladys brought out a tray of flavoring to mix in with our chocolate. I made coconut and coffee, salt and chilli, mint, m & ms, Oreos, while Ryan made two blocks, one coffee and cinnamon and the other chilli, salt and coca leaf. We are still in the process of eating our take home bars but so far they have tasted great. If you are ever in cusco check out the Choco Museo, its a good way to spend a morning.

- Louise -

Salt flats, volcanoes and flamingos

Taking a slight detour from our original plan we decided to head south to Uyuni to experience one of the seven natural wonders of the world Salar de Uyuni (Slat flats of Uyuni). After a very uncomfortable 11hr bus ride we arrived in Uyuni and were quickly joined by our 4 other tour companions and Tunupa Tour driver Waldo. It wasn't long before the car was packed and we were on our way for our 3 day tour.

It really doesn't matter how many times you see photos of the Salt Flats, nothing can brace you for the shear magnitude and beauty of this 10,500 square kilometers of pure salt plain. Upon entering the flats we gazed out of the tinted windows and we were all in awe at the white horizon that extended out in all directions around us. But it wasn't until we first to a step onto the salt that you realize it's full magnitude. With its slight layer of crystal clear salty brine it was as if you were walking on top of a parallel universe.

It wasn't long after the initial awe moment subsided that we all decided to take part, in the almost as famous, funny salt flat perspective photos. Since the entire area is one big white canvas you can really get some amazing, logic defying photos. However for some (two Japanese guys on our tour) a more interesting photo is to get completely nude, except for your backpack, a give a slightly shocked model look. Unfortunately I don't have a copy of these photos due to legal reasons however here are some of ours.

After the salt flats we all piled back into the Lexus 4x4 and headed for our first nights rest point, Villa Alota. The accommodation was only basic, small mud brick house with dorms and twin rooms, showers with hot water were an optional extra, but at 10 Bolivanions each and our current salty state we couldnt pass it up. The next morning was a reasonable 8am start where we continued our journey south to visit 5 small lagoons all inhabited by flamingos, the Siloli Desert, Stone Tree and finally Luguna Colorada, our second rest stop. The scenery along the drive was amazing and forever changing, with crops of quinoa blowing in the breeze, herds of llama wandering aimlessly and snow capped mountains covering the horizon. Each lagoon had a different quality and with it a difference species of flamingo. The arid desert was a plesant change in scenery, from the high altitude forests in the north, and the random scatter of volcanic rocks made it great for photos.

During the first stop where there was flamingo's we were concerned because we didn't get to see them up close, as they were very timid. Well we really shouldn't have worried ourselves as almost every lake we stopped at was full of them. At the final lake, Luguna Colorada, Ryan thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to photography them by stethly sneaking up to the bank, much to the amusement of the others on our tour group. However, it was completely worth it, as he got some amazing photos!

After a few drinks on the final night with our new friends from the tour, the third day started very early - a 4am wake up. This was to get to see some gueysers and get to the hot springs at sunrise. It was bitterly cold when we woke up and everyone was moving slowly but it was all made worthwhile when we were slipping into the smoking waters and sitting back to watch the sun rise. After a half hour soak and with the sun in the sky the quick dash to get dressed was a lot warmer then we anticipated. We then drove onto the green lake (which wasn't green due to wet season) and then dropped half the tour group off for their bus into Chile. Ryan and I made the most of the quick stop by jumping the trench illegally into Chile and then back again - our quickest international trip yet! With considerably more room in the car we started the drive back to Uyuni past Licancabur Volcano and many more that our driver listed as we drove past. We then stopped at Rocks Valley which was all formed from surrounding volcano's creating beautiful red rocks.

We have heard picking a tour company for the salt flats can be a bit of a nightmare, so we were admittedly concerned when we booked from La Paz (we wanted to make sure we could go on a specific day). We booked with Tunupa Tours, on their budget tour - $110 aud for 3 days / 2 nights. To anyone else looking for a tour we highly recommend them, and our driver Waldo. The accomodation was extremely basic, but comfortable nevertheless, the vehicle was in great condition and the food was great. We certianly weren't expecting chicken schnitzel with pasta and veggies in the middle of an isolated desert or llama steaks with quinola, roasted potatoes and bananas in a brick oven. They even gave us a bottle of wine to share on the final night!

After a long drive we arrived back in Uyuni to make our overnight bus back to La Paz.
- Ryan & Louise -

The mountain that eats men alive...

Towering above the quaint and historic city of Potosi is Cerro Rico, or as it is better know "the mountain that eats men alive". Why might you ask does this seeming harmless mountain have such a horrific nick name? Well it's actually because over the period of 1545-1825 it's estimated that over 8 million indigenous and African slaves died working in the confines of the mountain. Even today approximately 2 people die each week from silicosis contracted from working in this killer mountain. And what is it that justifies such a risk that even today thousands of men and children chose to work here?... Silver...

Silver was first discovered in Potosi, the highest city in the world at 4090m, by a local Inca who was searching for his lost llama. During his search he came upon this mountain at night and decided to light a fire, the fire was so hot that it started to melt the ground around it and a shiny silver liquid flowed out of the fire. Not long after this initial discovery the Spanish found out about the precious silver and established the first mine in 1545. Since then and until 1783 approximately 41,000 tones of silver were extracted from the mines and exported all around the world. Because of this Potosi quickly became one of the largest and wealthiest cities in the world.

Nowadays, whilst the mountain is still kept alive with its 500 active mines, the minerals being produced are very scarce and of poor quality. However this doesn't stop its 15,000 workers from trying their luck to strike it rich. And even though most of the mining methods haven't changed since the early colonial days, with men still carrying the material out on their backs, the major difference is that now all the workers actually work for themselves in a cooperative. This means that there is no head of the mine, all the profit is equally shared between the workers and that the work hours are agreed to by all, even though they still do double shifts of 24 hrs.

Obviously with mining running deep within our veins we had to check this place out first hand. So after a quick meet and greet with our friendly tour guides from Big Deal tours we set off to the mining market for a explanation of the importance of coca leave and to buy some gifts for the miners. The coca leaves play an important part of the South American culture and especially the miners of Potosi, as it helps with the altitude, keep them awake on the long shifts and helps suppress their hunger as there is no eating underground. After the markets we headed to Big Deal's changing quarters to equip ourselves for the mining tour, this included gum boots, protective over clothes and hard hat with lamp. All the guides thought it was hilarious that I needed a grande helmet to cover my hair...

Now that we were all kitted up and ready to face the mountain we set off for the mines with a short detour to one of the 29 processing plant, which of course Louise was very excited about. Using very basic technology these plants only separate the waste from the final refined mineral, which contains lead, nickel and of course silver. This product is then exported internationally for further refining and made into silver jewelry and other products sold around the world. Whilst only men, and young boys, are only allowed to work in the mines, women are allowed to work in the refining plants. And although the employees of these plants are far away from the man eating mountain, that does not help their life expectancy, around 40, as the chemicals used are extremely harmful.

After the processing plant we jumped back into the van and headed straight up the mountain to enter the dark and dangerous underword that is the Potosi mines. I must admit at first when we crossed the threshold it was a very daunting experience, knowing the we were entering a working mine that has claimed so many lives. However with our trusty guide leading the way, we soon all relaxed and welcomed the 2km trudge through the mountain. Initially it was easy going, with the tunnel set at approximately 2m in height and reinforced with ancient bricks from the Spanish era. But soon enough that all changed and we were well inside the mountain ducking and crawling through bear rock and makeshift wooden supports. With no proper ventilation system the air in the tunnels was very thin and polluted with dust. At times it was quite hard to catch your breath and your mouth was filled with that gritty dirt, but luckily enough we brought along scarves to use as poor mans dust masks. As this was a working mine we were constantly jumping against the wall to make way for the 1 tonne carts being pushed and pulled by the very tired but always happy miners. Occasionally as the passage way was too narrow, they stopped for us as we climbed over the cart and sometimes we would stay and chat and exchange gifts of soda and coca.

About an hour of scrambling though the tunnels we reached the wide and open workings from when the Bolivian government had control of the mines. We rested in this place for a short time, thankful for the room, whilst our guide ... explained to us the history of the mountain and the working conditions the miners face everyday. It was also a great chance to rest our feet and top up our cheeks with coca leaves. Feeling slightly rejuvenated we were on our feet again marching through the ankle deep water and trying not to hit our helmets on the low roof above.

After climbing three flights of dodgy but extremely sturdy ladders we reached the most sacred area of the mine, el Tio. El Tio, or the devil, is the owner and ruler of the underground tunnels. Whilst all the miners are very devout Christians on the outside, when they enter the darkness of the mine their allegiance and lives are in the hands of Tio. Every single mine in Cerro Rico has a shrine dedicated to the devil and every day each miner enters the mine they go straight to Tio to offer their blessings and ask for safe passage. Inside this little chamber our guide further explained the history of Tio and then we all made our offerings of 96 proof alcohol. First we pored some on the ground, an offering to the Pachamama (mother earth), then to Tio for safe passage and finally to ourselves.

With a warm comforting alcoholic burn in our bellies we headed for the exit. As our guide explained it to us before leaving, this was a special tour as we entered and exited through different tunnels. Which means we got to go though different working mines and pretty much pass through the whole mountain. Again we squeezed ourselves through the narrow passage ways until finally the light at the end of the tunnel (excuse the pun) was shining ahead of us and we were in daylight again. We survived...

Overall it was a awesome tour and we were glad to get a brief glimpse into what these men go though day in and day out to keep their family going. Big Deal tours were great, really informative and very funny. But I think the best aspect about their tour was that all of the guides are ex-miner and they run the company just like the miners run the mine, in a cooperative, so that everyone gets an equal share.

If the pictures weren't enough for you and you want to see some more of the action check out the video below. Also if you ever get the chance watch the heart throbbing, award winning documentary "The Devils Miner". Which follows the story of a young boy who worked in the Potosi mines to help support his family.

Mining Potosi Style from Ryan messer on Vimeo.

If mining is not your thing, defiantly don't rule Potosi out thinking the mine is the only thing to see. Because of its very lucrative past Potosi has some amazing architecture and one of the best mesuems in Bolivia. Once the primary mint in South America, now this grand old building, with 5 court yards and over 200 rooms, is home to some beautiful anonymous pieces of art. As well as numerous historical equipment used in the mint from the 15th century through till its closure in the 1960's.

If history isn't your thing there is also a thermal bath located approximately 1/2 hour outside of the city. Originally used for its healing powers, today the bath is a perfect place to relax and escape the bitterly cold Potosi climate. With the amazing Andes mountains as the backdrop, we would of happily paid more than the 10 Boliviano entry to visit this tranquil spot.

- Ryan -