Towering above the quaint and historic city of Potosi is Cerro Rico, or as it is better know "the mountain that eats men alive". Why might you ask does this seeming harmless mountain have such a horrific nick name? Well it's actually because over the period of 1545-1825 it's estimated that over 8 million indigenous and African slaves died working in the confines of the mountain. Even today approximately 2 people die each week from silicosis contracted from working in this killer mountain. And what is it that justifies such a risk that even today thousands of men and children chose to work here?... Silver...
Silver was first discovered in Potosi, the highest city in the world at 4090m, by a local Inca who was searching for his lost llama. During his search he came upon this mountain at night and decided to light a fire, the fire was so hot that it started to melt the ground around it and a shiny silver liquid flowed out of the fire. Not long after this initial discovery the Spanish found out about the precious silver and established the first mine in 1545. Since then and until 1783 approximately 41,000 tones of silver were extracted from the mines and exported all around the world. Because of this Potosi quickly became one of the largest and wealthiest cities in the world.
Nowadays, whilst the mountain is still kept alive with its 500 active mines, the minerals being produced are very scarce and of poor quality. However this doesn't stop its 15,000 workers from trying their luck to strike it rich. And even though most of the mining methods haven't changed since the early colonial days, with men still carrying the material out on their backs, the major difference is that now all the workers actually work for themselves in a cooperative. This means that there is no head of the mine, all the profit is equally shared between the workers and that the work hours are agreed to by all, even though they still do double shifts of 24 hrs.
Obviously with mining running deep within our veins we had to check this place out first hand. So after a quick meet and greet with our friendly tour guides from Big Deal tours we set off to the mining market for a explanation of the importance of coca leave and to buy some gifts for the miners. The coca leaves play an important part of the South American culture and especially the miners of Potosi, as it helps with the altitude, keep them awake on the long shifts and helps suppress their hunger as there is no eating underground. After the markets we headed to Big Deal's changing quarters to equip ourselves for the mining tour, this included gum boots, protective over clothes and hard hat with lamp. All the guides thought it was hilarious that I needed a grande helmet to cover my hair...
Now that we were all kitted up and ready to face the mountain we set off for the mines with a short detour to one of the 29 processing plant, which of course Louise was very excited about. Using very basic technology these plants only separate the waste from the final refined mineral, which contains lead, nickel and of course silver. This product is then exported internationally for further refining and made into silver jewelry and other products sold around the world. Whilst only men, and young boys, are only allowed to work in the mines, women are allowed to work in the refining plants. And although the employees of these plants are far away from the man eating mountain, that does not help their life expectancy, around 40, as the chemicals used are extremely harmful.
After the processing plant we jumped back into the van and headed straight up the mountain to enter the dark and dangerous underword that is the Potosi mines. I must admit at first when we crossed the threshold it was a very daunting experience, knowing the we were entering a working mine that has claimed so many lives. However with our trusty guide leading the way, we soon all relaxed and welcomed the 2km trudge through the mountain. Initially it was easy going, with the tunnel set at approximately 2m in height and reinforced with ancient bricks from the Spanish era. But soon enough that all changed and we were well inside the mountain ducking and crawling through bear rock and makeshift wooden supports. With no proper ventilation system the air in the tunnels was very thin and polluted with dust. At times it was quite hard to catch your breath and your mouth was filled with that gritty dirt, but luckily enough we brought along scarves to use as poor mans dust masks. As this was a working mine we were constantly jumping against the wall to make way for the 1 tonne carts being pushed and pulled by the very tired but always happy miners. Occasionally as the passage way was too narrow, they stopped for us as we climbed over the cart and sometimes we would stay and chat and exchange gifts of soda and coca.
About an hour of scrambling though the tunnels we reached the wide and open workings from when the Bolivian government had control of the mines. We rested in this place for a short time, thankful for the room, whilst our guide ... explained to us the history of the mountain and the working conditions the miners face everyday. It was also a great chance to rest our feet and top up our cheeks with coca leaves. Feeling slightly rejuvenated we were on our feet again marching through the ankle deep water and trying not to hit our helmets on the low roof above.
After climbing three flights of dodgy but extremely sturdy ladders we reached the most sacred area of the mine, el Tio. El Tio, or the devil, is the owner and ruler of the underground tunnels. Whilst all the miners are very devout Christians on the outside, when they enter the darkness of the mine their allegiance and lives are in the hands of Tio. Every single mine in Cerro Rico has a shrine dedicated to the devil and every day each miner enters the mine they go straight to Tio to offer their blessings and ask for safe passage. Inside this little chamber our guide further explained the history of Tio and then we all made our offerings of 96 proof alcohol. First we pored some on the ground, an offering to the Pachamama (mother earth), then to Tio for safe passage and finally to ourselves.
With a warm comforting alcoholic burn in our bellies we headed for the exit. As our guide explained it to us before leaving, this was a special tour as we entered and exited through different tunnels. Which means we got to go though different working mines and pretty much pass through the whole mountain. Again we squeezed ourselves through the narrow passage ways until finally the light at the end of the tunnel (excuse the pun) was shining ahead of us and we were in daylight again. We survived...
Overall it was a awesome tour and we were glad to get a brief glimpse into what these men go though day in and day out to keep their family going. Big Deal tours were great, really informative and very funny. But I think the best aspect about their tour was that all of the guides are ex-miner and they run the company just like the miners run the mine, in a cooperative, so that everyone gets an equal share.
If the pictures weren't enough for you and you want to see some more of the action check out the video below. Also if you ever get the chance watch the heart throbbing, award winning documentary "The Devils Miner". Which follows the story of a young boy who worked in the Potosi mines to help support his family.
If mining is not your thing, defiantly don't rule Potosi out thinking the mine is the only thing to see. Because of its very lucrative past Potosi has some amazing architecture and one of the best mesuems in Bolivia. Once the primary mint in South America, now this grand old building, with 5 court yards and over 200 rooms, is home to some beautiful anonymous pieces of art. As well as numerous historical equipment used in the mint from the 15th century through till its closure in the 1960's.
If history isn't your thing there is also a thermal bath located approximately 1/2 hour outside of the city. Originally used for its healing powers, today the bath is a perfect place to relax and escape the bitterly cold Potosi climate. With the amazing Andes mountains as the backdrop, we would of happily paid more than the 10 Boliviano entry to visit this tranquil spot.
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