Cafayate

Although we were quite enjoying Salta we had heard rave reviews from other travelers about a small town called Cafayate, which was located 3 hours south in the Calchaquí Valleys wine region known for Torrontes. The drive down to this area is particularly spectacular with beautiful rock formations and gorges. So to ensure we could appreciate the landscape we decided to take a day tour from Salta to Cafayate and stay in Cafayate rather then catch the tour bus back to Salta. This proved to be a good decision, as rather then seeing the landscape fleetingly through a bus window we were allowed to stop, take photos and take small walks to really appreciate the area. We even stopped at a natural amphitheater where a local band was playing music.

The tour then drove us into a winery close to Cafayate, Vasija Secreta, while very touristy it was great to have a quick tour of the history of the winery and then a tasting of the Torrontes and Malbec. After that we headed into town where our tour bus dropped us off at our hostel Rusty-k.

After dumping our bags and checking into our hostel we went straight into the town to find some lunch. The first place we stumbled on was Casa de Empanadas (house of the empanadas) which unbeknownst to us was the number two rated restaurant in Cafayate on trip advisor. It was very small, with an even smaller menu which pretty much consisted of 12 types of empanadas, but a small menu is a good menu and they were exceptional with flavors like blue cheese and chilli, corn and beef, tomato and chilli and blue cheese and parmesan. Unfortunately, for reasons we couldn't work out this was the only day this restaurant was open, although we did go back numerous time to check . . .

After a good nights sleep, the next thing on my list was to get to the goat's cheese place situated 1km from town for a tour and tasting. However, as there was only one girl working at the time a tour wasn't available, but not to worry - the tasting was still possible. We tried their natural, smoked, mixed, hard, strong and sweet cheese and even selected a few to take with us to enjoy a cheese board (or 2) in the lovely garden at our hostel.

Another high priority on the list was of course going around to the local wineries and trying what this area is famous for - Torrontes. The beauty about Cafayate is that most of the wineries are a short walk from town, filling our next few days with morning strolls in the autumn sun, surrounded by endless vines. With wine book in hand, thanks to dad, we managed to tour to Etcharts, Michel Torino, Nanni, el Transito, Domingo and then drop into the local wine bar Chato's to try any we had missed along the way.

Our favorite picks were the gran reserve Torrontes from Etchart, the San Pedro de Yacochuya Torrontes, and the reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Etchart.

Another indulgence we have experienced in Cafayate is the famous Argentinian Parrilla, or BBQ, cooked over hot coal on a grill that is raised or lowered to the perfect position. We had our first one at a popular restaurant on the main square where we had a mixed grill for two and a bottle of a local cab sav, all for $32. The meat was cooked beautifully with three types of sausage (one of them a blood sausage), two rib fillets and chicken, it was a huge meal that was topped off with a Torrontes sorbet made at a local ice cream shop. A trend in the local area is to make ice creams/sorbets from local wines which were surprising good with a little alcoholic punch, we also loved the cab sav flavor.

Another lunch, another BBQ, the next one we had was at a local restaurant near our hotel that was always packed and had long lines for take aways. Ryan and I treated ourselves to a t-bone and rib steak with the local beer to wash it all down. The meat was again cooked beautiful and was in more then ample portions, so we were certain not hungry!

Now Ryan felt that after seeing and tasting all these Parrillas that he was more then up to the challenge of having a go at cooking our own in our beautiful hostel garden. After doing all the appropriate shopping we heading back to the hostel and Ryan started to get the fire going. However, this proved to be a little more difficult due to the available fuel, as there was only the bare BBQ coals, not to be dissuaded Ryan kept at it until we had a small pile of glowing coals. We then piled on our huge mound of meats, beef sausage, pork sausage, rib fillet and sirloin fillet with a few piece of capsicum. While I prepare a small salad and opened the reserve cab sav from Etchart we picked up the day before. Ryan did an amazing job and the meat was cooked beautiful and was a perfect complement to our wine. The meal was completed when we opened up our sweets from a local gourmet shop - coffee and coconut flavored ajoraes - an Argentinian desert.

Another day another winery, sadly it was time to leave and head onwards to Mendoza, to continue the our education in Argentinian wines.

- Louise -