Piranha Fishing

As mentioned in a previous post, Into the Brazilian Wilderness, whilst we were on tour in the Pantanals we partook in a spot of Piranha fishing. We had a great time standing in the bank of the river pulling these ferocious fish onto shore. We also had an even better time eating them before they got to eat us. Here is some of action first hand:

Piranha Fishing from Ryan messer on Vimeo.

- Ryan -

Don't read this if you like/own a guinea pig . . . Ryan might eat it!

One thing we had heard that we could get in South America was guinea pig, apparently it is a delicacy. I am still not entirely convinced of this even though I did have a good of nibbles on a leg - after ripping off the paw. Ryan announced after devouring his plate that it tasted like chicken, I didn't quite agree but am not sure if I didn't like it much because of the taste or because I could see the whole animal, paws, head and all in front of me. All I can say with certainty is that it was an experience!

To appease my taste buds I then convinced Ryan that a desert was required so we continued through the markets to a very busy cafe and ordered Api with buñuelos (sweet, thick maize drink with cinnamon served with deep fried pancakes). It was really tasty and a good dessert for Ryan as it wasn't super sweet!

- Louise -

Volcano Soup

While in Bolivia, I have made a point of reading up on local foods to get an idea of what we should try. When we arrived in Potosi I read about this restaurant that served kala purca or more commonly called volcano soup by travellers. Kala purca is a thick maize soup with potato and meat that is served with a hot rock in it which keeps it boiling as it is brought to the table. Unfortunately, the place we wanted to try it at was closed on Wednesday, but after walking around the corner we found another place that was overflowing with customers all ordering their soups (we later asked our taxi driver where the best place for the soup was and he recommended where we ending up - so a blessing in disguise). Of course it wouldn't have been a traditional meal from Potosi without a Potosina - the local beer.

To see it in action - click below:

Volcano soup from Ryan messer on Vimeo.
- Louise -

Valentine's day

Just because we are on holidays doesn't mean that we can't celebrate the holidays and have a nice romantic dinner...especially since it is Valentine's Day. So for a special gift we treated each other to one of Sucres finest dining experiences, La Taverna. They serve a French style cuisine using some of the freshest local ingredients.

Starting off with our favorite, 2 Dry Martini's, we perused over the menu and almost instantly started to salivate. Whilst the entrees were definitely enticing we opted to just stick with the mains and finish up with some dessert, as Louise has some what of a sweet tooth. Like the entrees the mains had an extensive mouth watering selection including smoked trout, a traditional peppered steak and a rose petal covered chicken. Although they sounded amazing we decided to go with a caramalized beef steak with whiskey glaze and cow tongue with chilli and chocolate sauce. The tongue was perfectly cooked and came upon a stack of mild cheese which accompanied it beautifully. And the caramalized steak, which was actually 2 thick filet mignon stacked and covered with a sweet glaze, was just to die for.

To wash all this delicious feast down with we decided on a Bolivian 2010 La Concepcion Syrah from Tarija. It was a robust wine, or should I say vino, with hints of raspberry, plum and toasted vanilla. We will definately be checking out the rest of the collection when we head down to Tarija later in the trip.

Finally for dessert we chose a tiramisu and Louise's favorite chocolate mousse. Whilst the tiramisu was only average, however I'm sure this will be made up for in Italy, the chocolate mousse was outstanding and the perfect ending for a great meal.

- Ryan -

Good Food in Bolivia II

As promised we have got around to lots of cafe's to further investigate what the food is like here in Bolivia. One famous dish that originated from the city of Cochabamba is Piqué a lo Macho, chopped beef and sausage and fried potatoes, topped with onions, tomatoes and chillies. We tried a couple of these and while we enjoyed them (of course with the obligatory local beer) we thought the kitchens of Bolivia are a little heavy handed with the salt! But otherwise it was a great and extremely filling meal.

Another popular Bolivian meal is Pacumutu, chunks of beef & vegetables grilled on skewers, we found a little local steak place around the corner from our hotel in Sucre where we tried this for less then $3 (main picture below). We enjoyed it so much we went back then next night to try their rump and filet steak.

On our arrival to Sucre a lot of places were shut due to the final day of carnival, which also meant as we walked the streets searching for lunch we were getting bombarded with water bombs from passing cars. As we walked down the street we started to smell this amazing meat cooking and as we passed this small door realised it was coming from inside this tiny restaurant - so to hush our rumbling stomachs and escape the water bombs we quickly ducked in. Well, what a great snap decision! The place only served fried (in chilli oil) sausages with salad and bread (with the chilli oil poured over it). One of the best meals so far and only $4 for both Ryan and I with 1L of soft drink.

And finally (and perhaps most importantly) is desert. Now Ryan doesn't eat much sweets, so convincing him to have desert is tough, but I have succeeded on a couple of occasions. Most places just serve chocolate cake or brownies, which are good but nothing particularly special. However, the frozen yogurt in / around Santa Cruz is amazing. Firstly you pick your yogurt flavor and then they crush in your 'toppings' - one of my favors was chocolate yogurt with Oreos - not overly sweet because its yogurt. Another great one was natural yogurt with mango!

We have now just left Sucre, which is not only the Constitutional capital of Bolivia but also the 'chocolate capital of Bolivia', as we found out when we arrived. It was definitely a delicious surprise, nipping into Para Ti and having gourmet chocolates (mint cream, coconut rough, chocolate coated coffee beans, dark chocolate) for $1 per 100g. We also when to the chocolatier's cafe and had the most amazing, rich hot chocolate for 90c. To tell you the truth - it was a bit sad to leave Sucre, but the gastronomical delights must go on.

- Louise -

22 degree halo

Whilst out on our condor hike, just outside of Samaipata Bolivia, we were fortunate enough to spot a very interesting meteorological event. Sun halo or 22 degree halo is caused when light from the sun or moon is refracted through tiny ice crystals within the cirrostratus clouds high up in the troposphere. The ice particles act like prisms and split the light into the colors of a rainbow. Being on top of a mountain in the middle of know where, looking up and seeing this was a very tranquil experience.

- Ryan -

Samaipata

Samaipata is a small country town situated approximately 80km south west of Santa Cruz amongst the foothills of the Cordillera Oriental. It is fast becoming a tourist hotspot due to its relaxed nature, friendly locals and numerous activities situated in and around the town. The numerous tour agencies offer a wide range of excursions to suit everyone's budget and interest level. From camping and hiking to bird watching and cultural trails you will struggle to find any down time. The town itself also has plenty to offer, with daily markets selling some of the freshest local produce, relaxing in the town square whilst playing a lazy game of chess or take a short stroll out to the animal refuge centre where you can sit and watch a wide range of rescued animals.

The tour company we chose to go with was Jukimari Tours, operated by local and ever friendly Erwin. He has a range of tours to choose from, from half day to 3 day all inclusive, with both Spanish and English options available.

The two tours we did with Erwin were the 2 day camping trip into Amboro National Park, see previous post, and a one day trip to go see the condors. One thing that most people aren't aware of is that Bolivia is a great place to spot condors in the wilderness and Samaipata is one of the best, as it has natural viewing areas that are above where the condors land and rest, so it's possible to get that up close and personal feel. Whilst we weren't lucky enough to get this experience, due to the colder temperatures at the time, we still did manage to see the condors circling in the up drafts.

If tours aren't your thing and you would prefer to do the exploring yourself then I highly suggest taking a short stroll out of town to the Zoológico El Refugio. This rescue centre has been established for over 6 years and cares for numerous animals that are sick, injured or have been rescued from neglected homes. Some of the animals you may find there included, ducks, geese, deer, owls, wild cats, parrots, tortoises, dogs and the very friendly monkeys. But be warned some of the monkeys are loose and do like to play. For the low low entry fee of 10 Bolivianos it makes for a great morning or afternoon.

Another great trip that can be done by yourself is a hike up to the World Heritage Listed site El Fuerte de Samaipata. Approximately 10km east, back to Santa Cruz, up amongst the surrounding Andes mountains it is one of the largest and most important archeological sites in Bolivia. The site consists of many ancient carvings and ruins split into two different areas; the religious area and the administrative area. The religious area predominately consists of a large rock (220m x 60m) entirely covered by carved works relating to sacred gods and a suspected solar calander. The administrative area is quite different as it takes on different architecture styles from various cultural settlement throughout history, from the "Mojocoyas" (800-1300AD) to the "Incas" (1400-1450AD) and finally the Hispanic colony. This site is defiantly worth the walk, but there is also taxis and tour options available, just be sure to check the weather forecast before hiking up as it can get a bit wet up there as we found out.

- Ryan -

True Brazilian Caipirinha recipe

In addition to our tour in the Pantanal we also managed to partake in a cocktail lesson, that wasn't mentioned in the brochure. Whilst we had to provide the spirits ($6 for 956mL bottle of cachaca) all the other ingredients and lesson were free. This may of been because our tour guide just wanted to drink that night, but we are not complaining as it was a great night out.

True Brazilian Caipirinha recipe

• 1 x 965mL bottle of Cachaca (Brazilian white rum made from sugar cane)
• 1 x 1kg packet of refined sugar
• 20 x limes
• Ice
• Water
• Large jug

Step 1: Peel approximately 10-12 limes (machete works well), dice into small cubes and put into the jug

Step 2: Add a good dash of sugar to the jug (approx 100-150g) all depending on taste

Step 3: Muddle the lime and sugar together until all of the limes are juiced (don't use a fork or spoon as it takes too long... Potato masher would be best)

Step 4: Add Cachaca... Depending on party size or level of hangover you are trying to achieve a good start is 200-250mL

Step 5: Add ice, stir and then water to taste (remember to keep tasting as you go to get the perfect mixture for your palate)

Once the jug is empty keep the remaining lime pulp and add extras plus the other ingredients to keep your party going. Just one word of advice do not over indulge if you are planning to hike through a humid jungle the next day... Words of experience...

Camping in Amboro National Park

After some deliberation we finally decided to give camping a try. And one of the best spots in the area is in Parque Nacional Amboro or more commonly known as the Cloud Forest (altitude 2000 - 2500m). Due to the high altitude of the park it is typical that much of the flora is surrounded by clouds. As a result many of the larger trees are covered in lycan and moss which through a natural process turn the water from a gasious state to a liquid state and help transport it to the ground where it comes out at natural springs.

We set out from Samaipata with our english speaking columbium guide, Santiago, after a quick stop at the local markets to pick up all our food for the trip. The first leg of the hike to our camp site, was thankfully only a short 2 hours as our bags were packed to the brim.

After a surprisingly good camping lunch of gourmet bread, basil, cheese, tomato and ham sandwiches, we quickly set up camp and headed off for another 2hr trek to the top of the La Yunga, which was surrounded by clouds giving it a very mystical feel. We decided to sit up the top and wait for the cloud to clear a little before heading back down. After waiting about 10 mins the cloud finally parted and we were able to see the Andes in one direction and the Amazon and Pantanal in the other direction - well worth the climb and sitting in the cold winds!

Our guide Santiago was excellent at pointing out and explaining the medicinal uses of the flora within each of the different types of forests we visited and as well as the prehistoric history and evolutionary patterns of the different fern varieties. He also warned us about all the little nasties that can be found hiding among the foliage - one in particular was the beautifully colored caterpillars which when in contact with your skin sting and then eventually burn you. Of course Louise was unlucky enough to get one on her shirt which brushed against her forearm, it sure did burn but fortunately it was only a little baby so nothing serious.

After collecting some kindling from the top of the mountain we trekked back down and started to building a nice fire for the evening as it was starting to cool down with the sun falling below the ranges. Given it was a hot and humid environment we were worried it might just create a tower of smoke but we were in luck and ended up with a good fire - perfect to cook our pasta for dinner and keep us warm until bed!

The second day, after a very restless sleep, we headed off for another day of trekking. Heading north we followed the pre Andes range hiking through some pretty rugged terrain.

After returning from our 4hr hike we had another gourmet sandwich lunch followed by a quick clean up of the camp site before setting off for a return to civilization. The return journey was slightly longer as we took a different path around the mountain. Whilst the path was definitely more scenic, with many small creek crossings, little waterfalls and Jurassic ferns, it did prove to be more challenging. But thankfully we made it through unharmed, except for Lou's minor sting.

Over our two days we also manage to see numerous beautiful and very colorful plant life within the various types of forests we visited.

Overall, we had a great two days and covered approximately 30km. Although we were very happy we chose only one night as by the end of the two days we were in desperate need of a long hot shower, a glass of red wine and a good steak!

- Ryan & Louise -

Good food in Bolivia?

After asking around and reading the Lonely Planet we were a bit disappointed (we are planning to spend the most time here) to hear that food in Bolivia can be ''ho hum" and that we shouldn't expect much. So it was a unexpected surprise when after an hour or so of looking around at cafes to eat at in Santa Cruz (the largest city in Bolivia) we found Republica.

We first liked the look of the restaurant as the decor was very much like a trendy cafe / bar that we would visit in Perth. Then when we sat down and we were handed the menu, we immediately thought the place was going to be great. We weren't disappointed in this respect with an amazing fillet steak ($7) and beef empanadas ($1) and of course a local beer each ($1.70).

We are now staying in the small town of Samaipata, 3 hours out of Santa Cruz, and have been impressed again with everything we have eaten. The hotel we are staying at La Posada de Sol is run by a man from Texas and his wife who serve amazing food - we have so far been impressed with (we have only stayed 2 nights so far) the Rib eye steak with Texan beans and strawberry & spinach salad and the super cheese burger with fries.

Other then at our hotel we have enjoyed a few great restaurants in town and had a delicious pizza and an ice cream sundae which was perfect given the midday heat. There is also a few great places that make a pretty decent coffee and a trendy bar run by an Australian couple. We plan to head to one of the (few) traditional restaurant to try some local specialties after asking around for some recommendations.

So far we haven't had a meal in Bolivia that we haven't enjoyed and that wasn't exceptional value - maybe getting good food in Bolivia is all about where you eat?

- Louise -

Into the Brazilian wilderness

From the hassle and bustle of the concrete jungles to the inner depths of a real Brazilian jungle. No not quite the Amazon, but the vast natural paradise that is the Pantanal. One of Brazil's largest ecological attraction (but also crosses into Bolivia and Paraguay), the Pantanal, covers 230,000 sq km and contains up to 650 bird species and 80 mammals, including the worlds largest rodent, the capybara.

So from Rio we travelled west, 21hrs by bus, to Campo Grande. A sizable city which is the main gateway to the Pantanal and also host to the 3rd largest Japanese community in Brazil. The accommodation we chose was Hostel Campo Grand, ultimately because our Pantanal tour with Ecological Expedition included a free night there. The room was basic and fairly clean, and whilst there was no aircon it did have a fan with 2 settings baby whisper and jet engine. After a quick inclusive breakfast we travelled a further 3 hours to the drop off point (not much more than a dusty bus stop with old tyres as chairs) where we changed from our small minivan to a rusty old F100 pickup with next to no interior left and required the jaws of life to open the doors. From here the tour began...

We drove approximately another 2 hours, stopping along the way to spot wildlife. There was all sorts of birds, from stalks to turkeys, eagles, hawks and even toucans, some of the mammals included small little rodents, buffalo, deer and as mentioned before capybara. But the most impressive of all was the caiman, which is similar to a small alligator, and whilst poaching these animals is a big business there numbers are still in the millions.

The accommodation on the tour was quite nice, a large (seemed newly built) 3 story house with numerous double rooms and shared accommodation options on the second level. Downstairs was the kitchen and communal dinning and drinking area (which we may of partaken in). There was also some comfy outdoor chairs which over looked Rio Paraguai, a great place to sit back and watch the moon rise over the vast wilderness. (Fun fact: this river not only houses some amazing wildlife but is also used as the main transportation of iron ore from Bolivia).

Throughout the four days there we were kept busy with a range of activities, a night boat ride spotting some of the mystical nocturnal creatures, along and in the banks of the river, a morning boat ride which also included more animal spotting and a trek through some of the shallower wet lands in hope of spotting some anaconda (unfortunately they avaided us this time), more tracking though some of the dryer parts of the jungle, horse back riding (which I was really.... thrilled about) and lastly (and my favorite) paraina fishing.

Equipped with our bamboo pole, rusty hooks and what was either last nights dinner or just some old cooked beef we were dropped down stream on a small muddy bank. With a quick lesson on how to cast, which was basically just fling the sharp bit out into the river and then splash the tip of the pole in the water and "when you get nibble pull up", we were on our own. As the hot afternoon sun belted down on us, we assumed we were going to be in for a draining afternoon of slow and tedious fishing. However almost as quick as our sinkers hit the bottom the bites began and after a some premature jerking of the rods (excuse the pun) we finally go the hang of it and in came the parainias. Even though most of the fish caught was presumably under the legal limit (if one even exists for paraina) there were all kept and fried up for us that night. As for taste I would have to say that they were a little meatier than other fish I have had.

Overall our time in the Pantanal was very enjoyable, Ecological Expedition put on a good show considering its a budget tour.

- Ryan -